GLOSSARY
SOME WORDS TO BEAR IN MIND
Antropocen is a suggested geological period. It began during the industrial revolution and still goes on. It can be defined as the time when humans have affected the climate of Tellus and its ecosystem through global warming and other activities.
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​Art is "potentially any material or visual thing that is made by a person or persons and that is invested with social, political, spiritual and/or aesthetic value by the creator, user, viewer and/or patron" according to a definition made by Anne D'Alleva, professor in Art History and Womens studies at the university of Connecticut.
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​Assemblage is a three dimensional montage of different objects, often from everyday life, and sometimes in combination with painting.
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​Black Friday is a day in November when the consumerist society is encouraging consumers to consume fast fashion and other mass produced items at a reduced price.
Bokashi is a compost method in which food waste goes through a fermentation process before it becomes nutrition. It is also a natural part of a circular economy.
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​Bukowskis is an auction company in art, antiques and design that was founded in 1870 by the Polish nobleman Henryk Bukowski. Its head office is located in Berzelii Park 1 in Stockholm. The first major sale took place in 1873 and included one of King Charles XV's collections. One of the auction house's most spectacular auctions during the early 20th century was held after the great collector Christian Hammer, when parts of his collection were sold at five auctions. Among the buyers was Countess Wilhelmina von Hallwyl, creator of the Hallwyl Museum. Bukowskis holds six hammer auctions every year while the online auctions goes on continuously. Bukowskis contributes to keep valuable goods in a circle. If you buy a piece of furniture, a vintage garment or a piece of jewellery at Bukowskis, the item is likely to keep or gain value.
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​Buy less, choose well and make it last is a quote by the British designer Vivienne Westwood.
​Buy Nothing Day is a day in November when we are encouraged to not buy anything in 24 hours. Buy Nothing day can be seen as a manifestation that questions consumerism and is a contrast to Black Friday.
​Capsule Wardrobe is a collection of a few essential items of clothing that do not go out of fashion. The term refers to a collection of clothing that is composed of interchangeable items only, so that the number of outfits that can be created are maximized. A capsule wardrobe is considered as environmentally friendly as its garments stays with the same wearer for many years or decades. Timeless Edition no 1 of the label Lotta was created as a contribution to the world of capsule wardrobe items. Some of its garments, such as the Twill Trousers and the Twill Shorts can be purchased on this site.
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​Chainmail is a type of armour consisting of small metal rings linked together in a pattern to form a mesh. It was common military use between the 3rd century BC and the 14th century AD.
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​Circular economy is an economy that aims to keep the materials and products in a closed-loop system, minimizing the use of resource inputs and the creation of waste, pollution and carbon emission. Circular systems employ reuse, sharing, repairing, remanufacturing, refurbishment, recycling and upcycling.
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​Climate activism The terminology around climate activism might be associated with the fantastic actions that Greta Thunberg and her companions are doing every Friday. But to repair your broken denim jeans can also be concidered as climate activism or to let your nearest shoe repairer give your beloved boots a second life. To donate your garments to Humana or Röda Korset can be climate activism. And every walk you make, to the nearest recycling station with glass bottles and paper waste could be considered as climate activism.
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Cotton is a textile material. It consists of a natural based fiber that derives from the Gossypium family of herbs. It has been cultivated since long before historical times and has been used for textile purposes for at least 5000 years in China and India. It takes about 6 months from sowing to harvest. After harvest, the seed hairs, fibers, are separated from seeds and goes through a cleansing process. The fibers are then packed in bales. Cotton cultivation is associated with a high environmental impact, mainly due to the use of fertilizers and chemical pesticides as well as irrigation. Cultivation often takes place in dry areas where water is in short supply and production takes place with the help of irrigation. Water consumption varies between 7000 and 29000 liters of water per kg of cotton, making the crop one of the most water-consuming in the world. Work is underway to improve conventional cultivation from an environmental point of view, for example through more adapted cultivation methods. About 1 percent of world cotton cultivation is organic. The largest producers of organic cotton are Turkey, USA, India and Pakistan. The cotton fiber can easily be processed into products with good durability. Clothing made of cotton has a great washability. Woven cotton can usually be washed in high temperatures without loosing the greatest of its qualities. It usually gains new qualities throughout its lifetime. Another appreciated quality with cotton is the ability to feel cool in hot climates. Cotton accounts for about 20% of total textile fiber consumption in the United States and Western Europe and about 35% globally.
The cotton that is used in the Lotta Jersey garments is GOTS certified. It means it is organic. The cotton twill of the Twill Trousers and Shorts is organic but has no certificate. The cotton that is used in Original Lotta Skirts are upcycled from second hand denim jeans (and sometimes mixed with a few percentages of elastane). The cottons of the Hoody Boleros derive from upcycled second hand garments. The cotton we are using in 100 Cotton Denim Skirt 2021 is 100% organic Turkish cotton from Isko.
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Cradle to cradle is a design paradigm developed by chemistry professor Michael Braungart and architect William McDonough. They describe the concept in their book Cradle to Cradle: Remaking the Way We Make Things that was published 2002. Cradle to cradle uses nature's own processes as a model for human production and is based on principles such as that waste is nutrition and that the sun is an energy source. According to cradle to cradle, all materials can, through the right basic design, be nourished either by microorganisms or industrial processes. This eliminates waste as a concept. Previous waste becomes either food for the earth or new valuable raw materials for industry. In the long run, cradle to cradle stands for a new, circular economy where materials, just as in nature, are never destroyed or accumulated and where growth, production and consumption would actually be good.
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Ecological footprint is a method of measuring the quantity of nature it takes to support an economy or a person.
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Elastane is a synthetic fiber based on oil. It is stretchy and has high elastic capacity. It is usually mixed with other fibers. The upcycled material of the Original Lotta Skirts can contain a few percentages of elastane. Work pockets and Hip Pockets are attached with elastic ribbons.
Ellen MacArthur Foundation works to accelerate the transition to a circular economy.
Fashion Revolution "is a global movement consisting of people from all around the world who make the fashion industry work. Fashion Revolution are the people who wear clothes and the people who make them. Fashion revolution are designers, academics, writers, business leaders, policymakers, brands, retailers, marketers, producers, makers, workers and fashion lovers. Fashion revolution are the industry and the public. Fashion revolution are world citizens. The vision of Fashion Revolution is a global fashion industry that conserves and restores the environment and values people over growth and profit. The aims of Fashion Revolution are:
-An end to human and environmental exploitation in the global fashion industry:
-Safe, dignified working conditions and living wages for all people in the supply chain
-Redistributed and more equal balance of power across the global fashion industry
-A bigger and stronger labour movement in the global fashion industry
-A global fashion industry that works to conserve precious resources and regenerate ecosystems
-A culture of transparency and accountability across the value chain
-An end to throwaway culture and shift to a system where materials are used for much longer and nothing goes to waste
-Heritage, craftsmanship and local wisdoms are recognized and valued"
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Fashion revolution day falls 24 April every year since 2013 when the Rana Plaza factory building in Bangladesh collapsed. A small gesture reminding of the makers behind the garments of the world is to carry ones garments inside out 24 April and reflect over how they where made and by who.
​Fast fashion is a segment for fashion chains where you have low prices, constant news and a high turnover rate.
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Tony Fry is a design theorist and philosopher. He writes about the relationship between design, unsustainability and politics.
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​GOTS-certification The Global Organic Textile Standard is recognized as the world's leading processing standard for textiles made from organic fibers. It defines high-level environmental criteria along the entire organic textiles supply chain and requires compliance with social criteria as well.
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Global Goals Sustainable Development Goals are 17 goals adopted by the UN to create long-term global sustainable development. The goals were adopted on 25 September 2015 by the UN General Assembly and are an agreement between the states of the world to build a common future. The goals cover all the countries of the world and are based on a shared responsibility for both rich and poor nations. In addition to states, public institutions, private companies and civil society organizations are also seen as responsible for creating a common sustainable development. According to the goals, all forms of poverty and hunger must be eradicated through economically, socially and environmentally sustainable development. The entire world's population will have access to education, clean water and energy. Furthermore, the gaps between rich and poor must be reduced, both between and within states. The work for increased gender equality is also a priority issue as it is seen as a prerequisite for eradicating poverty. The environment must be preserved by halting climate change, guaranteeing biological diversity and switching to both sustainable production and sustainable consumption. There are also goals for a more peaceful world. The 17 new development goals contain 169 sub-goals that will make it possible to follow up and evaluate the work.
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Green New Deal is a recommended package of laws that intend to address climate change and economic inequality.
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​Haute Couture is the ultimate form of sewing art, considered both artistic and exclusive and precious and practiced only by a few leading fashion houses in Europe.
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​Humana Second Hand takes care of used and worn clothes, shoes, accessories. To Humana one can donate garments that are in a so called bad condition. Humana make sure that they are taken care of in the most relevant way. Humana People to People works with organisations that recycle cotton, wool, plastic and other recyclable materials. Humana People to People participates in innovative initiatives to recycle the non-wearable clothing and other items collected. If you buy your garments in a Humana Shop you are likely to create smaller carbonate footprint than if you buy them new. If you donate the garments that you do not any longer use, they will stay in the cycle which is better for the environment than if you throw it in the garbage. Recycling of clothing not suitable for re-wear or re-use is done using the best available technique, with priority given to closed-loop recycling over low-grade recycling.
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​Industrialism is a process in which the economic center of gravity shifts from handicrafts and agriculture to industry in a larger area.
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​Naomi Klein is a Canadian author, activist and film maker. Through her book No Logo (1999) she became a foreground figure of the global justice movement. Her book The Shock Doctrine (2007) treats the breakthrough of the disaster capitalism. Her thesis is that the operators that work for a deregulated capitalism, exploits crises to implement political changes that are dangerous for the societies. In her book This changes everything (2014), she claims that the global warming process cannot be stopped during the present political unregulated capitalist order.
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​Malcolm McLaren was a British entrepreneur and artist. In 1971, McLaren and Vivienne Westwood opened a clothing store in London. From 1975 he launched punk fashion and worked as the manager of the group Sex Pistols. In the 1980s, McLaren began his own record career, where he mixed influences from hip hop, opera and African music.
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Medveten konsumtion The association Conscious Consumption in Sweden is a non-profit association, which is based in Stockholm and active throughout Sweden. The association is counteracting overconsumption. An average Swede consumes as if we had 4.2 planets. The association Conscious Consumption tries to remedy this through various campaigns, initiatives and impacts so that more consumers will understand how their choices affect the environment and health. The goal is to reduce the negative impact on the environment and health, and increase positive social impact.
Myrorna is a chain of stores selling furniture, clothes, household utensils, books and more donated by the inhabitants of Sweden. The organization is part of the Salvation Army. Currently it has 35 stores in Sweden. About 400 people are employed in the store chain. In addition, there are about 3 000 collaborators who work in labor market policy projects in stores and sorting. The collaborators consist of people who want to develop their language skills, work training and the like. This is part of Myrornas social work. Myrorna were originally the name of an association of women in Stockholm, with the purpose of collecting discarded effects, clothes, furniture and more for the benefit of the poor from more affluent families, which were then repaired and sold. The operation was taken over by the Salvation Army in 1899. The surplus from the sale is used for the Salvation Army's social work. If you purchase your clothes at Myrorna, you create less carbonate footprint than if you purchase them from fast fashion chain of stores such as Zara. If you purchase furnitures at Myrorna it is better for the environment than if you purchase it from Ikea. You will also support the social work that Myrorna does.
​Johanna Leymann is a lecturer, author, moderator and consultant in sustainable fashion and sustainable entrepreneurship. We recommend her guidelines and her knowledge.
​No Logo is a book by Naomi Klein. The first time it was published was 1999. It became one of the most influential books about the alter-globalization movement.
On fire is a book by Naomi Klein. It was published 2020 and shows ways to combat the threat of an environmental catastrophe.
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Polyester is an oil-based textile fiber. It is durable and inexpensive to manufacture. It dries quickly and does not wrinkle. Unlike wool, however, it makes you feel sweaty and frozen. The feeling of wearing polyester garments is not pleasant. It needs to be washed often. And every time a polyester garment is washed, tiny plastic particles come loose from it. These microplastics are too small to be captured by the treatment plants. Instead, they are washed out into the oceans. There, they end up in the stomach of, for example, fish and risk impairing the reproductive capacity in the entire food chain. We have therefore chosen not to use polyester in our products.
Preloved is another word for secondhand clothing.
Preworn is yet another word for secondhand clothing.
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Rana Plaza in Dhakar was a factory building in Bangladesh that collapsed the 24 April 2013. 1138 people were killed in the collapse and over 2400 people were badly injured. Most of them were garment factory workers. They had toiled hard for years in an unsafe environment. Fast fashion companies had been using Rana Plaza for production by workers that did not receive living wages. On the anniversary of the Rana Plaza factory collapse, Fashion Revolution encourage millions of people to come together to campaign for systemic change in the fashion industry. Since then, the 24 of April has become the yearly Fashion Revolution Day and contain global actions that pay attention to the textile industry.
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Redesign The Hoody Boleros can be considered as redesign. In this case two garments has been used in order to create a completely different, new garment. A shirt and a hoody is becoming a Hoody Bolero with a new unique design, inspired from Tudor fashion. The front of the original shirt becomes a sleeve and the collar of the original shirt shapes the hip of the new garment in its new design.
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Julian Roberts is a British designer, pattern cutter and film maker who invented his own zero waste method of pattern cutting called Subtraction cutting.
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Röda korset, The Red Cross is an international humanitarian movement with approximately 97 million volunteers, members and employees worldwide. It was founded to protect human life and health, to guarantee the respect of all people, and to prevent and alleviate human suffering. If you buy a second hand shirt for 100 kronor in Röda Korset second hand shop, it will, according to rodakorset.se, mean food for a family somewhere in the world for one month. If you buy a dress for 166 kr it will mean clean water to 200 people.
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Second hand is a term for used or used goods, in particular clothing. A store that sells such goods is called a second hand shop. To donate or sell a used garment to a second-hand shop is a way of contributing to a circular economy and to make it stay in the circle. To buy a garment in a second hand shop is also a way of contributing to a circular economy. According to Thredup resale report, second hand clothing is expected to make up 1/3 of wardrobes by the year 2033. Other words for second hand are pre-loved and pre-worn.
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Lucy Siegle is a British journalist and writer. She writes about environmental issues.
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Silk is a natural protein fiber. Some forms of it can be woven into strong and light weight textiles. Mulberry silk is obtained from the cocoons of the larvae of the mulberry silkworm bombyx. Fabrics made of silk were first developed in China around 400 B C. The attractive luster and shimmering appearance of silk is due to the triangular prism like structure of the silk fiber, which allows silk cloth to reflect incoming light at different angles, thus producing different colours. The low conductivity of silk keeps warm air to the skin in cold weather. The absorbency of silk makes the wearer cool in warm temperature.
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Slow fashion is part of the slow movement. It encourages a kind of manufacturing that cherish respect for people, environment and animals. Its opposite is fast fashion.
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Stockholms Stadsmission is a chain of secondhand stores that have a wide range of clothes, books, china, art and antiques. When you purchase your clothes at Stadsmissionen you make less carbon footprint than if you purchase it at a fast fashion chain. You also support the social work that Stadsmissionen runs.
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Seam is the join where two or more layers of fabric, leather, or other materials are held together with stitches.
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Subtraction Pattern Cutting is an innovative method of zero waste pattern cutting invented by the British pattern cutter and designer Julian Roberts.
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Textile materials can be divided into different categories:
- Textiles based on natural fibers. Natural based textiles are: cotton, linen and hemp (that derives from the vegetable kingdom) and silk, wool and leather (that derive from the animal kingdom).
- Textiles based on synthetic fibers are for example polyester, polyamide, acrylic, elastane and nylon that are made of oil and produced in a chemical way.
- Regenerated textile materials are fibers artificially made from natural material. Viscose, rayon, Lyocell and Tencell are examples of regenerated textile materials. Wood cellulose, often from spruce, is used for cellulose fibers. The material is chipped and boiled in calcium bisulfite and converted to sulfite cellulose. The molecules are then reshaped with the help of baking soda and carbon dioxide. This becomes a syrup-like solution. The solution is then forced out into nozzles into a spinning bath. Here, the cellulose is regenerated into a textile fiber form. You can also make regenerated fiber from proteins such as milk, corn, peanuts and soybeans.
Fabrics made of a combination of different fibers are commonly used in fast fashion as it may give garments great qualities while being used. However, textiles that are made of a mix between for example cotton and polyester are more difficult to recycle than a garment made of only cotton or only polyester. The label Lotta is mainly using textiles that includes only one fiber.
The label Lotta is presently mainly using materials from the first of the three categories: Textiles based on natural fibers. Fibers included in the garments presently presented on this site are cotton, silk and wool. The reason are that they offer qualities that are pleasant for the wearer, they age with grace and beauty. Another reason is that they are compostable. All cottons are either organic or upcycled. All wools are upcycled. There are two exceptions to this: Some garments are sewn with polyester thread. For the upcoming productions, we are using lyocell thread. Another exception to our natural material rule are Original Lotta Skirts that include a few panels of denim that are upcycled jeans out of which some include a few percentages (usually 3%) of elastane. It gives the skirt its elastic quality and easy fit.
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The chock doctrine is a book by Naomi Klein. It was first published 2007
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Thredup is a fashion resale website for consumers to buy and sell secondhand clothing online.
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The ten TEDs is a toolbox of sustainable design strategies for designers developed by TED, Textiles, Environment, Design research in a collaboration between Chelsea College of Art and Design and Mistra Future Fashion.
The headline principles are:
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Design to minimize waste.
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Design for cyclability.
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Design to reduce chemical impacts.
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Design to reduce energy and water use.
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Design that explores clean / better technologies.
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Design that take models from nature and history.
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Design for ethical production.
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Design to reduce the need to consume.
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Design to dematerialize and develop systems and services.
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Design activism.
Två tre gånger is a shop in Stockholm where one can purchase vintage fashion of high quality and luxury brands such as Chanel, Paco Rabanne and Gucci.
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Tradera is a website for trading mainly secondhand and antique goods with auctions. It is said to be the biggest circular market in Sweden.
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Tudor period is a historical era in England. It lasted between 1485–1603 and is coinciding with the rule of the Tudor dynasty.
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Unique means completely alone of its type. On this site, we present some garments that are unique. In this context, it means that it can't be reproduced. In some cases, the reason to this is that there was no pattern for the garment. It might have been created by the designer of the label without a pattern. (In some cases, a pattern can be created after the garment has been created. In some cases, this is not possible.) The garments that we call unique are the ones that we do not recreate. Some of the garments such as the Hoody Bolero, can be recreated. But each Hoody Bolero will be slightly different from the other. In that sense, each Hoody Bolera can be considered as unique.
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UPS United Parcel Service Incorporated is the world's largest parcel distribution company delivering over 13 million parcels to over 200 countries worldwide every weekday. UPS is well known for its brown vans and solid brown uniforms. The brown color used is called pullman brown after the brown sleeping cars, designed by George Pullman, who used the same color. UPS chose this color because they wanted a color that was associated with reliability, and they thought these carts did.
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Vintage The word vintage comes from the Latin word for wine harvest. The concept was developed to be about finer and older vintage wines. When it comes to clothes, some claim that these must be at least 25 years old to be included in the concept. Another definition of vintage is older garments of high manufacturing and design quality.
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Vivienne Westwood is a British fashion designer born 1941. Through her collaboration with Malcolm McLaren and through her anarchist approach to clothing, Westwood came to mean much to the development of 1970s punk fashion, where black clothing, leather, metal details, intentional holes and separate combinations of garments and materials were essential. Today, Westwood is widely recognized as an innovative fashion designer, especially when she in her own, highly unconventional way reshapes British fashion classics such as the tweed suit, hunting suit and school blazer.
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Who made my clothes? In 2013, a factory building in Bangladesh called Rana Plaza collapsed. 1138 people were killed in the collapse and a lot or people where badly injured. Most of them were garment factory workers. They had toiled hard for years in an unsafe environment. A response to the tragedy came in the form of the creation of Fashion Revolution. It is a non-profit global movement that campaigns for reforms in the fashion industry. The mission is to unite people and organizations to work together towards radically changing the way our clothes are sourced, produced and consumed. Fashion Revolution advocate that collaborating from farmer to consumer is the only way to transform the industry and has created the hashtag Who made my clothes?
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Wool is hair from sheep or from animals such as rabbits, goats, camels and llamas, which in spinning and other processing have properties similar to sheep's wool. The surface layer consists of flat cells, which overlap each other like roof tiles and contribute to the wool's felting ability. At the end there is a thin membrane that is water-repellent. This helps to ensure that wool is not so easily soiled. The main part of the fiber consists of the cortex, which consists of coil-shaped cells. Chemically, wool consists of keratin with 20 amino acids, including sulfur-containing cystine, which together form long chain molecules. These are in spiral shapes which contribute to the wool's great extensibility and elastic elasticity and thus to its good wrinkle resistance. The strength of the wool fiber is lower than many other fibers, but its stretchability and elasticity means that very durable wool products can still be manufactured. The frizz and elasticity of the wool also gives voluminous fabrics that do not flatten during use and therefore maintain a high insulation capacity. Wool can also absorb a lot of moisture without feeling wet and is therefore outstanding from a comfort point of view, especially in temperate and cold climates. It has medium light resistance but is sensitive to dry heat above 130 ° C and should therefore not be ironed in the dry state. Wool can be destroyed by microorganisms and by certain insects that moth protection protects against. Wool is dirt-repellent and relatively easy to clean; for daily care, ventilation is usually sufficient. Wool is often mixed with synthetic fibers, in fabrics with polyester, in knitwear usually with acrylic and in socks and wear garments with nylon. Wool production has decreased in relation to synthetic fibers due to lower production costs for the latter. Wool fabrics have been made at least since the 3000s BC. During the Middle Ages, sheep's wool was one of the major staples in Western European trade. Garments made of wool does not need to be washed often. In many cases it can be cleaned by the air. Therefore, wool garments are better for the environment than for example polyester.
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Zero waste pattern cutting is a design technique that reduces textile waste at the design stage.